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Post by lynnee on Aug 14, 2022 22:20:20 GMT -5
rickbaro, replacing a LED driver is beyond me, even though you make it sound easy with your clear explanation! I loved reading about the procedure, though, and I love it that you're going to keep your AG going. 
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veng1
AGA Sprout
My logo is from a spectroradiometer I designed to measure a Sprout.
Posts: 51
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Post by veng1 on Nov 13, 2022 18:11:47 GMT -5
About four years old (AG agreed it's out of warranty). The lights started flickering, so I took it apart hoping to find a bad connections, but when I pressed on one of the solder joints with my meter, it stopped working altogether. No output on the DC side. The input was correct. I didn't think it would be a big deal since LED drivers are kinda' all the same in a way. I recently built a piece of furniture and used some LED strips. It was pretty simple; you're given a wattage per foot of the strip, and you buy either 24, or 48volt. Add up the footage and you know the wattage. I'm thinking I'll just buy a driver in the 45 watt range, with a switchable between 24 and 48 volt. But for all I know they could be running the LEDs on 12vdc. The driver may have to be mounted outside the garden laying behind it. but at least we get to use the thing again. I would disagree that all" LED drivers are the same" as the most efficient way to drive LEDs is often constant current although I suspect that AeroGarden uses constant voltage. If you can see the traces on the printed circuit board and tell how many white LEDs are in series, then it is an easy calculation as the typical white LED is around 3.3VDC. However, I'm guessing that constant current would be too complex for an LED panel that uses multiple color LEDs. In that case, I believe there is one voltage with the strings of different colors having their current set by a dropping resistor. I also think that the most economical is to use the voltage from the wall AC to DC adapter without changing the voltage. But without tearing one down, that's a just guess. So, first I'd suggest using or getting an inexpensive voltmeter or multi-meter to measure the voltage being supplied to the LED panel. And then finding a suitable replacement. |
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Post by darais211 on Nov 13, 2022 19:33:36 GMT -5
About four years old (AG agreed it's out of warranty). The lights started flickering, so I took it apart hoping to find a bad connections, but when I pressed on one of the solder joints with my meter, it stopped working altogether. No output on the DC side. The input was correct. I didn't think it would be a big deal since LED drivers are kinda' all the same in a way. I recently built a piece of furniture and used some LED strips. It was pretty simple; you're given a wattage per foot of the strip, and you buy either 24, or 48volt. Add up the footage and you know the wattage. I'm thinking I'll just buy a driver in the 45 watt range, with a switchable between 24 and 48 volt. But for all I know they could be running the LEDs on 12vdc. The driver may have to be mounted outside the garden laying behind it. but at least we get to use the thing again. I would disagree that all" LED drivers are the same" as the most efficient way to drive LEDs is often constant current although I suspect that AeroGarden uses constant voltage. If you can see the traces on the printed circuit board and tell how many white LEDs are in series, then it is an easy calculation as the typical white LED is around 3.3VDC. However, I'm guessing that constant current would be too complex for an LED panel that uses multiple color LEDs. In that case, I believe there is one voltage with the strings of different colors having their current set by a dropping resistor. I also think that the most economical is to use the voltage from the wall AC to DC adapter without changing the voltage. But without tearing one down, that's a just guess. So, first I'd suggest using or getting an inexpensive voltmeter or multi-meter to measure the voltage being supplied to the LED panel. And then finding a suitable replacement. your 100% right about them not being the same! depending on the chip sets and all that kind of stuff they can vary drastically. when it comes to power and stuff like that always do research and always go with a well known brand! power is basically the blood of the system and people try to cheap out on some of the internal parts, they may work at first but eventually once they start wearing down they become not only a hazard to whatever you are using it on but for who ever is around them! I've seen cheap PSU's in desktops completely catch fire because of cheap parts in them. |
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veng1
AGA Sprout
My logo is from a spectroradiometer I designed to measure a Sprout.
Posts: 51
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Post by veng1 on Nov 15, 2022 11:09:27 GMT -5
I've designed hundreds of LED circuit boards in multiple types of systems. The only power supplies I recommend are Meanwell.
I'm guessing that AeroGarden uses 12VDC supplies to work with their pumps but I don't really know. If I was buying or designing a replacement panel for an AeroGarden that used an external supply, I'd probably go for at least 24VDC as the LED panels are typically more efficient at higher voltages.
For reference, the AeroGarden Sprout has a blue component to the spectrum that is not commonly found in general purpose LED lights.
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Post by gryffin on Jan 6, 2023 9:10:45 GMT -5
Jumping into this thread because I think I am having the same problem. One side of my hood is not powering the LED panel on my Farm XL. I’m trying to find some workable solution so it can still be used. The unit is 4 years old.
If I could plug in an external LED power source to get us through the next couple of months that would be ideal. Then, we can unstack, take the hood apart and see if we can find an issue that can be fixed with solder. Right now, with all gardens planted, taking it all apart seems like too big of a project.
Trouble is that I can’t pinpoint the specs on what power source could work.
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Post by scarfguy on Jan 6, 2023 10:39:37 GMT -5
Jumping into this thread because I think I am having the same problem. One side of my hood is not powering the LED panel on my Farm XL. I’m trying to find some workable solution so it can still be used. The unit is 4 years old. If I could plug in an external LED power source to get us through the next couple of months that would be ideal. Then, we can unstack, take the hood apart and see if we can find an issue that can be fixed with solder. Right now, with all gardens planted, taking it all apart seems like too big of a project. Trouble is that I can’t pinpoint the specs on what power source could work.
Unlike the smaller aerogardens, the farm LED is powered from an internal power supply. On a bounty or a harvest, you can read the specs off of the power supply brick.
Can you put a volt meter on the connector of the LED panel that is working and measure the voltage? I don't think you can measure the amperage that the panel will draw but a brick with the right voltage and adequate amperage should power it.
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rness
AGA Sprout
Posts: 9
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Post by rness on Aug 13, 2023 13:30:17 GMT -5
Jumping into this thread because I think I am having the same problem. One side of my hood is not powering the LED panel on my Farm XL. I’m trying to find some workable solution so it can still be used. The unit is 4 years old. If I could plug in an external LED power source to get us through the next couple of months that would be ideal. Then, we can unstack, take the hood apart and see if we can find an issue that can be fixed with solder. Right now, with all gardens planted, taking it all apart seems like too big of a project. Trouble is that I can’t pinpoint the specs on what power source could work. We're you able to get this figured out? |
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Mightywhite
AGA Sprout
English is my first language, sarcasm is my second...
Posts: 28 
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Post by Mightywhite on Aug 25, 2023 10:11:09 GMT -5
I have had a similar problem with one of my really old Farm Plus models, the right light will not come on anymore. It's not the light panels, any of the chords, or the control boxes as many have stated the problem is on other discussions. It seems AG uses really low quality solder on the printed circuit boards and they end up fracturing over time due to the constant schedule of the on/off cycle. There are some good discussions on Reddit on how some have fixed this with some simple re-soldering. I will be embarking on this journey and will create a new thread for the repair once I get the time to disassemble the hood.
It's a damn shame AG customer service does not stand behind their products by offering replacement parts and components to enthusiast level customers who use these things for more than one year.
https://www.reddit.com/r/aerogarden/comments/kh1yo8/farm_lights_stopped_working
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Post by lynnee on Aug 25, 2023 13:08:35 GMT -5
Thanks, Mightywhite, for the info about fractured solder joints--and the link with photos. Looking forward to your new thread.  |
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Mightywhite
AGA Sprout
English is my first language, sarcasm is my second...
Posts: 28
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Post by Mightywhite on Aug 29, 2023 14:00:09 GMT -5
So the light just magically started working again, but it is definitely compromised and cant be trusted. I tried an external power supply from Amazon that I thought would work to just put on a timer to keep it going for the time being, but it didn't work. The plug seems to be the correct size but won't get the light panel going, not sure if it's a CC (constant current) or CV (constant voltage) but it does not work nonetheless. I'll link it below no no one else tries it.
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veng1
AGA Sprout
My logo is from a spectroradiometer I designed to measure a Sprout.
Posts: 51
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Post by veng1 on Sept 1, 2023 15:44:47 GMT -5
The LEDs are normally wired on the PCB in a "tree" arrangement. So if all of the LEDs are off, it implies no power is getting to the entire tree and the first place to look is at the power connector solder joints or power wire solder joints if there isn't a connector.
If a string of LEDs are out but most of the others are on, then I'd suggest pressing on the ends of the dark LEDs and see if the string lights. Don't press on the soft plastic lens as it is easily damaged. All you are trying to do is identify a bad solder joint that could be re-soldered. It is probable, from the AeroGarden LED panels that I've seen, that there is a current limiting resistor in series with each string of LEDs that could have a bad solder joint. These don't have a lens, so just push in the middle and see if the string lights
Another failure mechanism is the bond wire joint breaking inside the LED. This can sometimes be detected by very gently pushing on the lens. Because the lens is so fragile, this is a last resort. If the bond wire is broken, that probably means the LED must be replaced.
As, apparently, the LEDs have resumed working at least temporarily, it would be prudent to check the voltage and polarity of the working power supply. The polarity of those cylindrical power jacks are not standardized. Sometime positive is on the inside, sometimes not. The LEDs typically won't light if the polarity is reversed.
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